Cattle Red Arowana Fish

Red Arowana fish, the usual price of a thousand dollars, including family Arowana fish "ancestor", which Osteoglasidae or families of fish "Bony-tongue" (bony tongues), because the bones are the basis of his mouth that serves as a tooth. Arowana have various names, such as: Fish Dragon (Dragon Fish), barramundi, Saratoga, PlaTapad, Kelesa, Siluk, Eden, Peyang, Tangkelese, Aruwana, or Arowana, depending on the place. 
 
 
Arowana, including the shape and appearance of a beautiful and unique. His body elongated, slender, and the "stream line", with very graceful swimming motion. Arowana in a variety of natural colors like green, silver, or red. At the bottom there are two barbels lip that serves as a vibration sensor to determine the position of victims in the water. Whiskers are included in the assessment criteria of beauty fish.

Arowana is a large growth potential, especially with high protein feeding. Arowana growth in aquariums up to 60 cm, whereas in the wild more than 90 cm. Types of Arowana fish originally from South America to grow to 270 cm.

Arowana fish is swimming on the (surface feeders), as shown by betuk mouth. In nature they are swimming near the surface to catch prey. Arowana can accept all types of food for carnivorous fish, but often they just sort out one type of food only, and reject the other type. As the fish glide, Arowana in nature can catch the insects that perch on twigs height of 1-2 meters from surface water. So maintaining the aquarium should be covered properly.

Arowana is a tough fish that can live up to half a century. High demand with limited availability of natural causes in nature restrict exploitation. CITES (Convention of International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna) determined that the Asian Arowana fish as the fish that received the highest protection. Various types of Asian Arowana, among others:
 
Red 
Red Arowana coming from various places in the West, such as from the Kapuas River and Lake Sentarum known as the habitat of Chile and Blood Red. Waters is a peat forest area as appropriate for these fish. However, mineral, black water and aquatic environments seranggan so much influence on the evolution of the color red Arowana fish is concerned. Geographical influence also led to the creation of different variations on the morphology of red Arowana fish, such as a wider body, the head of a spoon-shaped, red warnah more intensive, and the base color is more concentrated.

Red is full of young fish appear on the fins, the lips and tentacles. When mature, the color red will appear in various other body parts, especially at the edge of the gills and scales, so the fish looks red.

Red Arowana are grouped in four varieties, namely Blood Red, Chili Red, Orange Red and Golden Red. The four varieties are generally given the title of First Grade Super Red or Red, although the development of super red is referring to the Red Chilli and Red Blood. While the last two varieties is considered as a super red with a lower grade.

Maintaining Ornamental Shrimp

Ornamental Shrimp Conservation Tips
Four important things to note, before keeping ornamental shrimp: 
  • Good aeration .
  • Cycle a great aquarium (aquarium filter is adequate and mature) .
  • Does not include plant "dirty", the new etc.
  • Do not add too many addictive substances.
Preparation of materials: 
  • Aquarium (minimum length 60cm) 
  • UGF filter (personal recommendation) 
  • Canister (optional) 
  • Aerator (if not wearing a canister) 
  • Power head (if not wearing a canister or aerator) 
  • Soil / substrate / sand - Read recommendations substrate 
  • 0.5 x volume of aqua lights. For example aquarium 90liter - 40-45 watt lamps (personal recommendation)

Having the right setup is very important for ornamental shrimp, this is one determinant of your ornamental shrimp populations.

An aquarium is mature (well cycled) usually takes about 30 days of initial setup. Of course, this process can be accelerated by using the old media into the new aquarium. But this is not recommended unless you are sure that the media of the old aquarium is really safe, because the old media may contain unknown parasites or viruses that can be harmful to the shrimp.

Instead, it would be better to include a variety of bacterial powder, nitro-baster, bio-bacteria, or even some basic fertilizer for aquarium. Try as much as micro-and macro-organisms can breed in the aquarium.

There are many models for shrimp aquarium setup. The main difference is its average in the filtration (the filter used). 

  • Under gravel filtration (UGF) is supported by the canister. 
  • Filtration using a sponge 
  • Filtration using a HOB (hang on back)
  • A combination of filtration canister
My favorite is the under gravel filtration using a power head or the aerator. Combined with a canister or UGF. My recommendation if sufficient budget, please use the UGF + Canister, but if you can use to setup middle UGF with power head or aerator.

Installation sequence is:
  • UGF (under gravel filter)
  • Cover with mesh
  • Substrate / Soil / Sand - (read the recommendation of substrate)
 Do not forget to keep the temperature at 24-26

Bumblebee Fish or Bumblebee Goby

Bumblebee Gobies.  Everyone loves the little bumblebee gobies, but not everyone wants to go to the trouble to take care of them.  Unfortunately, bumblebees usually fall into the hands of small tank owners -- not a good mix.  Bumblebees can live in small tanks, but most small tank owners lack the experience to keep these cute little dudes alive and kicking.. 

Species.  Several types of bumblebees pop up from time to time -- much depends on where they came from.  Some sport different bar patterns.  Different species?  Masts niches.  You keep them all the same way.  We like the four-barred ones.  The different species have different numbers of rays in their various fins.  As the famous ichthyologist, Elizabeth Barrett Browning said, “How do I i.d. thee, let me count the rays.”

Feeding Time.  Your new bumblebee gobies probably will ignore flake foods at first.  They prefer live foods  (like black worms) or at least frozen shrimp (thawed, of course). Lots of other frozen bug-size foods trip their triggers -- especially when other bees compete with them.  If you keep a few large female guppies with them, your bees will find some live food on their own.  Too large a fish will intimidate them.  They have a big mouth for their size, so we plan to experiment with glass worms.  California black worms go down very smooth. 

Mixers.  Bumblebee gobies move slow, so leave out the speedy zebras and other zippers.  Good candidates include other brackish fishes such as glass fish (Indian), flounders, and dragon gobies.  Mollies like the same water but get to the food too fast and stuff their guts while the bees just haven’t quite got the buzz yet.

Scavengers.  Since snails hate salt and catfish don’t like it much either (except bull sharks), we’d recommend ghost shrimp as scavengers.  If you feed flakes, these semi-invisible arthropods will make excellent cleaners.

Fierce Little Beasts.  From the front, bees look to be all mouth especially when yawning, eating, or arguing during spawning.  Bumblebee gobies can nip long-finned fishes.

Plant Decor.  Salt in their water puts the kibosh on most plants.  Plastic plants always work.  Some of the best live plants to keep with bumblebee gobies include Java moss, the slow-growing Java lance fern, and the fast-growing water sprite. 

Comfort Decor.  PVC pipe pieces and resin caves on the bottom serve as security and breeding sites.  More natural choices include empty snail shells (not little shells, tho).  Look into those shells available for hermit crabs.   Axelrod’s Atlas of Freshwater Fishes has some great bumblebee gobs shots with the little twits defending their snail shell homes and hearths.  They look like fierce wee beauties with their huge (comparatively) mouths ready to bite whatever approaches -- mostly other male bees. 

Helping Fish Get Rid of the "Ich"

ARS researcher David Straus has shown that copper sulfate is an effective and less expensive treatment for fish infected by the fungus Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, also known as "Ich," (shown here as white spots on catfish). Click the image for more information about it.
Copper sulfate has emerged as an effective treatment for Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, also known as "Ich," a protozoan parasite that appears as white spots on infected fish, according to a U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) scientist. 

Aquatic toxicologist David Straus with USDA's Agricultural Research Service (ARS) investigated copper sulfate as a method to control both Ich in catfish and a fungus—Saprolegnia—on catfish eggs. Straus works at the ARS Harry K. Dupree Stuttgart National Aquaculture Research Center in Stuttgart, Ark. ARS is the chief intramural scientific research agency of USDA, and this research supports the USDA priority of promoting international food security. 

Ich is considered the most prevalent parasite worldwide in ornamental fish, baitfish and food fish, according to Straus. Ich is less common in U.S. aquaculture because of management techniques, but when it occurs, it can kill all the fish in a pond or raceway. It is calculated that Ich was directly responsible for $1.2 million in losses to the catfish industry in 2003. 

The freshwater fungus Saprolegnia is another major pathogen in fish culture, killing eggs and invading wounds and lesions on juvenile and adult fish. 

Straus found copper sulfate is an effective treatment for Ich on fish and fungus on eggs. According to Straus, copper sulfate is the only practical treatment to control Ich in catfish ponds that average about 10 acres in area. It is easy to use, effective and inexpensive, and is safe for the user to handle. 

Current approved treatments for fungus on eggs, such as formalin and hydrogen peroxide, are much more expensive. Also, both compounds are hazardous, and there are human safety concerns as well as required storage precautions.

Copper sulfate is not currently approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for therapeutic use in aquaculture, but regulatory action has been deferred pending the outcome of Straus' ongoing research. The chemical is approved by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency as an algicide and molluscicide. Fish farmers use copper sulfate to control cyanobacteria that cause off-flavor in fish, and to control snails that transmit parasitic flatworms to fish.

Ornamental Fish: The steps Ornamental Fish Aquarium Supply

Tips 

After you select the appropriate species and to buy equipment such as aquariums and accessories, aquarium preparation steps necessary before you can insert the fish into the aquarium decorations. These measures should be taken to ensure that you are able to maintain the ornamental fish for the first time.

Steps To Prepare Fish Aquarium Decoration

1. First clean the containers / Ornamental Fish Aquarium

You need to clean the aquarium with the newly purchased water to make sure dust or dirt in the aquarium is not to be toxic to the ornamental fish you later. The most beautiful clean with water flowing like a hose pipe. Once finished cleaning, put the aquarium in a place that you want.

2. Put Water Filter

After you install a water filter that includes all the type of machine you choose. Make sure you put a water filter boxes (berspan) in the right place. If no water will drip out of the aquarium.

3. Enter Stone Decoration (if necessary)

Put decorative stones if necessary to play or where the fish shelter. Ornamental stone is sometimes made ​​to feel the fish as if it were in the river or natural habitat.

4. Put In Other Furnishings (if necessary)

You can enter the home furnishings such as water mills, houses an artificial, ornamental plants, etc. if necessary. Make sure that the decoration was not causing other ornamental fish aquarium into fiber / full of decorations so that the fish did not appear. Your main objective is to preserve the ornamental fish and aquariums is not decorating.

5. Insert Accessories Needed

Accessories are meant here is like the air filter, temperature gauge (thermometer), measuring the ph of water and light. You only need to install this accessory if you need it and ornamental fish will die if this accessory is not available. Make sure you ask the seller of ornamental fish to the needs of fish you want to keep.

6. Put Some Water

After that you enter the water. Purpose here is enough distance between the water level to the top of the aquarium (the glass) is about 3-4 inches. If it is too full it will overflow if the fish jumps to snatch the food (if more than a fish). If the water is too shallow or too little water temperatures sometimes get hot if the temperature outside is too hot.

7. Enter Anti Liquid Chlorine and salt Suitable By Syllabus
Make sure you put anti-chlorine liquid and enough salt was determined by measurement of the size of your aquarium. Anti Chlorine products sold in the market have a different measure based on the size of the aquarium. Make sure you read the labels on the bottles of anti-chlorine before putting them in an aquarium. Salt would need to be a bit to kill the bacteria that can harm fish. Salt can also be purchased at the store of ornamental fish.

8. Water Pump Switch

After everything is ready, put the water pump switch to the nearest socket. Turn the water pump and let the 1 - 2 hours. DO NOT add more fish. After that you put the fish one by one.

Safe keeping of ornamental fish of your choice.

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